The Welsh walk - an update

Quite a few months have passed since I last blogged about the walk round the Welsh coast. Going by this blog alone, you could be forgiven for thinking that I am still a man of Harlech, whereas the truth is that I have now reached Machynlleth. So, what's been happening between the two, other than a lot of walking?

I left Harlech last November. In many ways it was a typical November day - cloudy and dull, and whereas even in the height of summer it had been difficult to see some of the tourist areas in full flow, there was a distinct impression of things shutting up for the winter.

This is another stage of the walk where it is necessary to head inland. Not for a vast distance, but in order to avoid a disused airfield and a tidal causeway leading to Shell Island, it is necessary to head into the hills a little way. The first hill, heading out of Harlech itself means that the view of the castle quickly disappears. For all its association with Welsh history, it's necessary to look forward and move ahead.

Despite moving forward, at times, the way seems to be leading back on itself. Indeed, there was a point where the sea was on my left. Had I not been able to see the road swing round again in the distance, I would have thought I was wrong, keep the sea on the right is the most basic navigation method for the whole of the walk. Sure, I've got maps and the like to give me a bit more idea of my bearings, but the basic rule of thumb had an exception to it here!

Once in the hills, the view is stunning. The route goes through the village of Llanbedr, where I stopped for a coffee from my flask, and it struck me that this is the second time this flask has accompanied me on the walk across Wales. I had originally bought it for the Bangor to Cardiff trek back in 1989-90. Some things have changed since those days, but some are reassuringly familiar still.

Lunch was a bowl of soup in a cafe near Dyffryn Ardudwy from where it's a case of follow the main road (fortunately well-pavemented) along the coast, drop down onto the sea wall shortly after Llanaber and make the final approach into Barmouth from there.

Barmough in November looks closed. It's a shame, it's a nice place, with a lot going for it, but on a dull day, with the light starting to fade, people were shutting up shop as early as they could get away with.

I'd been hoping to reach Harlech by Christmas - to get to Barmouth was a bonus, but, given the time of year and the shortening of the days, it is probably time to pause here and resume in 2012.