Machynlleth

Today's stage of the walk was functional rather than anything else. It had to be done, but I was unhappy with it for a number of reasons. They all revolve around that fact that it took me away from the coast, and there was very little in the way of sea view to speak of here.

The plan was to walk from Tywyn to Machynlleth. why Machynlleth, a town the best part of 20 miles from the coast? Where does that come into the picture? Well, it may be inland, but it is the place nearest the coast where I can cross the Dovey estuary (apart from a railway bridge which is railway only and has no public right of way)

Ironically, as I started to head inland, just after Tywyn, the signs I needed to follow were for "Happy valley" - I was anything but! As if the feeling that I was going off course wasn't bad enough, conditions underfoot were far from ideal. The weather was biting cold, and there was ice in places. I slipped but stayed upright a couple of times - thankfully nothing serious.

There were some good points, though, and these also deserve a mention. Firstly, on approaching the village of Cwrt, the views were stunning. Not coast as such, but views over the estuary, as the hills on my right finally gave way and allowed a look at what lies beyond them. Also, in Pennal, the delightful church of St Peter ad vincula is well worth a visit. It dates back to the 6th century, has links with Owain Glyndwr, yet embraces the modern as well as the ancient.

Meeting up with the A487 for the final push into Machynlleth brought me back onto the route I used for the Bangor to Cardiff walk over 20 years ago. It is a long time since I have been to Machynlleth, and most of my visits then were to change trains at the station. I had a good hour and a bit before a train back to Barmouth (where I had left the car) so it was a chance to walk round the small town and jog some memories of yesteryear. Although it's a long time since I visited, this is now very familiar territory, and I am looking forward to the next stage immensely.

Update 2 - leaving Barmouth

West Wales in January. Biting cold, but glorious sunshine. A beautiful day for a walk.

Leaving Barmouth is an experience. The route takes you over the Mawddach estuary via a rail and foot bridge. It looks a rickety old thing, but as it carries a passenger train every hour, it must be safe enough. The wind howled, I needed 4 layers on as well as hat, gloves etc, but it was wonderful. The scenery over the estuary is breathtaking, and it was a wonderful way to start the day.

Once over the bridge, it's on the path to Fairbourne, following a sea wall and the Fairbourne railway, which, being a school day in January, was not running. This is another of the many Welsh seaside resorts which looks as if it could be very pleasant in season, but looks deserted the rest of the time. Not that I'm here for a day at the beach. Well, I am in a way, but not in that sense. There are other resorts which are calling.

Much as I hate doing so, I had to follow the road for a while. Fortunately it's a pretty quiet road, and as the sea wall seems to peter out into the sea, it was definitely the best decision! However, it does go uphill. Never let anyone tell you that the coast of Wales is flat. Whilst it was by no means the steepest section of the coast - I had that joy on the Lleyn peninsula on a baking hot day last August - it's a climb all the same. However, as with all climbs, it is worth it for the view out to sea.

Other than the view, there isn't that much of interest for the next step, though eventually you do come to the village of Rhoslefain. Whilst this is a very small place - maybe village is a bit of an over-grand description, there is at least a place to sit, check the map, pour a coffee and realise that at last there is a way forward that involves only minor roads, so that was where to head next.

So it was along that minor road and over a field to rejoin the main road (which to be honest was so wide at this stage that it looked like Brands Hatch - but without the traffic) before turning off it again to cross the old Dysynni Bridge (pedestrians only these days), which is the place closest to the coast where to cross the Dysynni river. After that, it was a 2-mile walk on the path alongside the main road to head into the resort of Tywyn.

To look at the map, the logical thing would be to continue down the coast to Aberdovey then head along the Dovey estuary to Machynlleth. However, to do that would require about 20 miles of walking on main roads. No thanks. There is another option which goes on quieter roads inland to Machynlleth, and logic dictates that to be the path to follow. That's for the next section though, so today's walk ends in Tywyn, with very familiar ground tantalisingly close.

The Welsh walk - an update

Quite a few months have passed since I last blogged about the walk round the Welsh coast. Going by this blog alone, you could be forgiven for thinking that I am still a man of Harlech, whereas the truth is that I have now reached Machynlleth. So, what's been happening between the two, other than a lot of walking?

I left Harlech last November. In many ways it was a typical November day - cloudy and dull, and whereas even in the height of summer it had been difficult to see some of the tourist areas in full flow, there was a distinct impression of things shutting up for the winter.

This is another stage of the walk where it is necessary to head inland. Not for a vast distance, but in order to avoid a disused airfield and a tidal causeway leading to Shell Island, it is necessary to head into the hills a little way. The first hill, heading out of Harlech itself means that the view of the castle quickly disappears. For all its association with Welsh history, it's necessary to look forward and move ahead.

Despite moving forward, at times, the way seems to be leading back on itself. Indeed, there was a point where the sea was on my left. Had I not been able to see the road swing round again in the distance, I would have thought I was wrong, keep the sea on the right is the most basic navigation method for the whole of the walk. Sure, I've got maps and the like to give me a bit more idea of my bearings, but the basic rule of thumb had an exception to it here!

Once in the hills, the view is stunning. The route goes through the village of Llanbedr, where I stopped for a coffee from my flask, and it struck me that this is the second time this flask has accompanied me on the walk across Wales. I had originally bought it for the Bangor to Cardiff trek back in 1989-90. Some things have changed since those days, but some are reassuringly familiar still.

Lunch was a bowl of soup in a cafe near Dyffryn Ardudwy from where it's a case of follow the main road (fortunately well-pavemented) along the coast, drop down onto the sea wall shortly after Llanaber and make the final approach into Barmouth from there.

Barmough in November looks closed. It's a shame, it's a nice place, with a lot going for it, but on a dull day, with the light starting to fade, people were shutting up shop as early as they could get away with.

I'd been hoping to reach Harlech by Christmas - to get to Barmouth was a bonus, but, given the time of year and the shortening of the days, it is probably time to pause here and resume in 2012.