St Davids to Broad Haven
St David's Day is well and truly over
for another year, but this April day was the morning I found myself on the bus back to
Britain's smallest city ready to resume the walk.
It has been the oddest Easter ever –
Snowmageddon I called it. North Wales is still recovering from the
effects of the snow, but here in Pembrokeshire, there is nothing. It
is sunny and mild – I think calling it warm is going a bit far! So
I've decided to brave it and put my shorts on – with a pair of
tracksuit trousers close at hand in case I need them.
From the city, it was the easy, narrow
road to St Nons. Non was the mother of David, and it was here where
Wales' Patron Saint was born.
When I saw the words “St Non's Well”
I thought, “I'm very pleased to hear it!”
The first few miles were quite easy, it
was reasonably flat to Solva – reasonably – there were still a
few ups and downs, but nothing compared to earlier stretches of the
Pembrokeshire coast.
So, how do you Solva problem? The
problem was getting into the village – and then, when I found the
way in, getting out again without straying too far from the coast
path. The knack, it turns out, is to cut across the car-park at the
harbour. Beyond the small array of touristy-seaside shops, cafe and
car park payment booths, there is a path that leads up the hill on
the other side, and this is the way back to the coast path.
I said hill. Yes, there is some
climbing again now. Again, nothing like the bit leaving Cardigan, but
enough to stretch the leg muscles!
I came to a field, and could see from a
distance that it was full of cows. Memories of the walk in February
still haunted me, but I plodded on. Apart from anything else, there
was a steep bank between the cows and me for the first part – they
weren't going to come charging down there. Even after I had climbed a
bit, there were several people walking the path and walkers and cows
didn't seem to be bothering each other, so I walked on, casting an
occasional glance from the corner of my eye in their direction, but
otherwise trying not to look at them. When they realised that I
wasn't going to bother them, they didn't bother me either, but it was
still a relief to get to the style at the far side of the field.
After the field there was another hill
or two, and then a beautiful descent into Newgale.
It was time for a
bowl of soup.
The map for Newgale and the guide-books
both seem to suggest an easy walk along the beach for the next mile
or so. Don't you believe it! The beach is full of pebbles and walking
on them is not comfortable. Instead, it was easiest to walk on the
road before going uphill again.
There has been a slight diversion in
the path here, due to coastal erosion. The path seemed to come to a
fence in the middle of nowhere, with another path leading across a
field, away from the coast. All very well and good, but there was a
bull in the field, and I was most wary of crossing this. To be fair,
the path across the field was very short, and the bull was walking
towards another area of the field where it wouldn't be able to see me
– I still waited until it was safely out of sight before making my
move though! I'm pleased to report that it was a safe crossing! On
the road at the other side of the gate, I could hear it snorting, but
it seemed happy enough. As there was a stone wall between us, I was
happy enough as well!
The diversion didn't last too long, but
it did mean going uphill on road. By now, the hills were beginning to
tire me, but I suppose it was good exercise! Soon, it was back onto
the coast path for the final stretch of the day. One thing I have
noticed about the day – of all the walkers I have seen, I was the
only one in shorts! That said, some were in t-shirts and I needed 2
layers up top, one of them being a fleece, so each to their own I
suppose!
A final hill, then down to the pleasant
seaside village of Broad Haven. I had left my car there before the
walk began, so it was back to the car to get some food and drink, and
then head home home.
