Raad ny Foillan - the conclusion

Day 5 – Onchen to Castletown

There's one thing to do today before I take a step anywhere – get my name down for the ballot for next year's London Marathon!

After that, the day began with a lift back to tram stop / car park near Onchan. The path followed the road for a short while before diverting round the back of Millionaire's Row, some of the grandest housess on the island. They say money talks – it certainly does. There were several signs reminding walkers that this was private property, it was nothing like as friendly as the nature reserve last Saturday. That was private property, but the feeling of welcome could not have been more different.

Back on the road for the approach to Douglas, the island's capital.

 I still can't decide of it reminded me more of Aberystwyth or Llandudno. Suffice to say that if you like either of these Welsh resorts, you will like Douglas. It really is a lovely place. The prom lasts for 2 miles. This is not the height of the summer season, so it was not exactly at its busiest, but it was still a bustling metropolis in comparison to some stages of the walk!

At the end of the prom, the Steam Packet terminal is passed all too soon, then there's a flight of steps and before you know it. Raad ny Foillan continues along Marine Drive. At this point, the weather didn't know what to do. There was a breeze, so my coat went on for warmth, then it started to rain, so the waterproof trousers went on, then it was fine so off they came and so on. Also, the crowds (!) had again disappeared by this point. This is about as far as people tend to get if they are visiting Douglas and decide to have “a bit of a walk”

The road drops down to car park at Port Soderic, then the path through the glen really is a very pleasant bit of coast. Then, there's more road, which is not so pleasant, before heading back to the coast and the cliff paths.

Who said poetry was dead? :-)

At one point, the path goes through a field of cows. I really was not happy, and neither were they, but happily, they made their displeasure known by walking away from me rather than towards me! Thankfully, there were no major problems, then it was out of the field to the road at back of Ronaldsway airport. This was an odd feeling – between the airport and the sea. A metal road marked the path, and drops down onto the beach at one side and the airport fence on the other made sure you stuck to the path.

At that point, I thought that I had reached Castletown. I hadn't, I was only in Derby Haven, which is a pleasant enough place, but there were still 2 miles to go. These 2 miles took me past King William College before finally arriving in Castletown and meeting up with John at the memorial to John Wesley – where else!

In the evening – a meal with the friend I met up with yesterday afternoon.

Day 6 – Castletown to Port St Mary

In comparison with what has gone before, today was a stroll. The total distance was only about 7 miles, so it was a relaxed start. Most of today's walk was on road, though there was one diversion away from the road shortly after leaving Castletown and going past another Millionaire's Row. It was then back onto the main road which I have come to be so familiar with over recent days, being driven to one or other corner of the island, but I branched off the road just as Port St Mary's lower promenade comes into view. If that sounds short and sweet, it was, it only took a couple of hours and was not the most challenging day of the walk. Indeed, this was day 6, but really, I could have done this in 5 days had I really been pushing myself. There was another challenge in mind, though – before setting off, I entered next year's Brighton Marathon!

John met me on the prom and took some photos of me as I was reaching journey's end. At the end of prom, well, that's where the whole thing began last Tuesday. Raad ny Foillan - the way of the gull - had also become the way of the Robin!

I really don't know how I felt after completing it. It was strange. I was certainly pleased that I had done it, and it was a great sense of achievement, but in a much quieter way than wanting to punch the air and shout “Yes” as I usually do when I finish a Marathon. It was an odd feeling – good, but odd. When I had a photo taken to celebrate the accomplishment, I'm told I looked philosophical.

Anyway, there was some celebrating to do now before the boat home tomorrow. First of all, an organ crawl around some of the island's churches and chapels before seeing “The Sound of Music” at the Gaiety Theatre, Douglas, that evening. Maria von Trapp looked more like Cilla Black, but we'll let that pass.

What an amazing week. I have met some great people – some planned, some totally unexpectedly. Many, many thanks to John for being mine host, driver and all-round good guy, and his son Matthew for putting up with me. One thing I do know – it must not be another 43 years before I return to the island.

Ramsey to Onchan, then a day of rest!

Day 4 – Ramsey to Onchan

At last – a clear day without rain! There was still a bit of a breeze, but not as bad as yesterday!

The journey out of Ramsey was on the road. To an extent this is inevitable, but it was perhaps for longer than intended. If approaching Port e Vullen from the beach, check tide times first. As the tide was coming in, I decided to err on the side of caution. Looking at it from the other end, it appears I would actually have been ok after all.

Once on the path properly and away from the road, the views on the approach to Maughold were stunning – there was even a glimpse of Cumbria in the distance.

After following a few more contours around the cliffs after leaving Maughold, a lot of the next stretch is on road, criss-crossing the Manx electric railway. Ballajora station provided a brief chance to check the map and get some water on board. This bit was uphill, and it was starting to get hot! It was also interesting to see just how far inland this bit of the coast path was!

What goes up must come down, and after Cornaa, a very pleasant descent through the glen led to Port Cornaa – before going back up the equally pleasant other side!

More road to walk on, and more railway to walk alongside. Also, more walkers out today than I have previously seen. This is almost certainly because it is Saturday, but also, the Parish Walk is coming up next month, an 85-mile walk over 24 hours, and many people were training for that. Indeed, it's been commented that I move at a fair lick when I get going. Perhaps. Some of these race walkers, though, could, and did, leave me standing!

After Dhoon, I was passed by some walkers whilst having a sandwich. Once I got going again, I followed them for the next mile or so, but they were obviously in training and just disappeared further and further into the distance.

More minor roads, passing close to King Orry's Grave eventually give way to a drop through Old Laxey into Laxey, but only time for the briefest relaxey! No, I wasn't pushing myself unnecessarily - had that been the case I would have reached Peel, not Niarbyl on Day 1!

To be serious, I did have a little time to admire this seaside town. Even stopped at a cafe for a bottle of irn-bru to go, but, as has been mentioned earlier in this blog, this is a walking holiday, not a tea-shop holiday, so on we go.

If it had felt like all road up to now, the next section really was road – the A2 until Baldrine is almost reached. On the road, I met a cyclist going the other way, he asked how far it was to Laxey and was very relieved when I said it was 2 miles maximum! I think the heat was beginning to get to a couple of people by now!

After leaving the road, the path doesn't go where you expect it to when you reach Ballannette. It seems as if you turn left before a gate that seems to lead on to private property, but actually, what looks to be private isn't – at least, not right here, so it's forward onto this land before a right turn.

Actually, it is private property, but very welcoming to walkers and cyclists. The way is clearly marked, there are a couple of outside taps with notices inviting you to help yourself to drinking water. Well, of course I filled one of my bottles. There was even a loo a little further on with charity collecting tins on the windowsill! The helpful, welcoming, friendly nature of whoever designed this made this part of the walk a joy. If you are the owner of this estate, or if you are responsible for the facilities which help put a spring in a tired walker's step, thank-you.

I chose to make a detour after that, to Old Lonan's Kirk. Well worth a visit it is too. Apparently, in the day the local population were complaining that the church was too remote for them. It's partly in ruins these days, but not totally, and even the parts which are in ruins are well-preserved. For instance, I shouldn't have been surprised to see the font when I went through the door, but a roof might be useful unless you want the risk of everyone being baptised!

A seat in the churchyard proved a useful place to locate a car park on the map, a mile or so further on, and I texted John to make that today's meeting place. What happened next was positively barking!

The two women on the path in front of me must have been walking at least a dozen dogs between them. There wasn't a lead to be seen. All it took was one bark, and before I knew what was happening, there were a dozen dogs running towards me, and two women yelling at them as if that was going to make any difference. Now fair play, these weren't dangerous dogs by any means, just little yappers, so I stopped, patted as many as I could reach and said “Hey, what's the fuss?” and was very soon allowed to continue with no further ado. But before I had reached the end of the road, someone else must have passed them, for I heard the barking and the yells of the women again and wondered what might happen should anything more serious than a passing walker distract the dogs' attention.

I reached the car-park no worse for my ordeal by dog (!) and sat in the shelter by the stop for the electric train opposite. Well, wouldn't it be the case that the train arrived at the same time as John did. So I was furiously waving to John trying to get his attention whilst waving to the driver of the train to say that I didn't require the train service, thank-you. Thankfully, it all worked out ok, and another day's walking was successfully completed.

Sunday – a day off walking. I preached at Port Erin Methodist Church in the morning, played the organ at St Mary's Parish Church, Port St Mary, in the afternoon, and later had an unexpected but very pleasant meeting with an old friend before preaching at Ballagarey Methodist Church in the evening. It was good to meet some of the Manx Methodists and see what life in the Methodist church is like in this corner of the Connexion.

Niarbyl - Peel - Point of Ayre - Ramsey

Day 2 – Niarbyl to Jurby

First of all, a correction to part 1. The cafe I mentioned is the Sound cafe, not the Sands cafe. It overlooks the Sound leading to the Calf of Man. My mistake.

Back to Niarbyl. Back to the rain. In fact, it was pouring down. The forecast was that this would clear, but it was going to take some clearing! First stop was the beach to see the white line on the rock where the earth's American plate meets the European plate.

There were more hills to begin with, but they were nothing like as bad as yesterday's. After following the road for a mile or so, the path veered off the road and down into Glen Maye. It was very pleasant with nice scenery, but when you reach the bottom, the bridge that looks like being the obvious place to cross isn't the place to cross! The crossing is a little way upstream, but the pleasant glen makes the walk through it fully worthwhile. After the glen, one final hill led to Peel. The views of Peel from the top were quite something, and the views of Peel Castle, like the view of Port Erin yesterday, would have been all the better had it not been raining!

I descended on the castle side of the hill, and didn't stop, as, in the rain, Peel looked wet and miserable (I visited it later when the sun was out and it looked much nicer), so I decided to press on.

Most of the route from Peel to Kirk Michael was on a disused railway track. It was muddy. By now, the rain had stopped, but I decided to keep the waterproof trousers on as they were making a good mudguard! In fact, this was quite a squelch all told!

The track suddenly stops, and a path leads to the road. After a brief visit to the beach, the village of Kirk Michael is reached. Now, prepare for a blast from the past. It was early closing! Remember that? That's a phrase I haven't heard for about 30 years! Fortunately, a garage was open, so I did get to top up my supplies of chocolate!

There had been a brief visit to the beach earlier. The next 22 miles were nearly all beach, covered over the rest of day 2 and going into day 3. More of that later. For now, what I noticed most was that the map and reality don't always bear a good resemblance to each other. I'm not saying that the map is inaccurate, but it does look to be a nice, long, smooth curve. The reality is that there are quite a few rocky headlands along the way. At least the weather was now fine, the waterproofs were off and I could enjoy an afternoon on the beach, even if it did mean 2 hours of walking rather than sunbathing!

On the headland, Jurby church could be seen. It sounds interesting, but my destination was just a little way beyond that, Sartfield. This was the pre-arranged meeting place with John, and happily, we arrived there at the same time. Something else that was pre-arranged was the need for a change of clothes in the car, as John had arranged for me to visit Peel Cathedral and have a go on the organ before evening prayer. Thanks to all who worked behind-the-scenes for that to happen :-)

Day 3 – Jurby to Ramsey

This was beach all the way, and also landmarks all the way. Although they didn't come thick and fast, they were always there in the distance. Indeed, after the initial excitement of seeing them had died down, you did wonder if they were ever going to get any closer!

An hours walking along the beach is an hours walking along the beach. It did, though, lead me to the Lhen Trench. Now the guidebook says that you need to jump it. It may be the case that the author of the guidebook is an experienced, award-winning long-jumper. If that is the case, good on her! There was no way I was prepared to take a running jump at that. So, being thankful that I had shorts on, I took my shoes and socks off and waded through. That woke me up! Some friendly dogs came to say hello as I was putting my shoes back on, and I did have a brief chat with their owner as well.

I said that this stretch is predominantly beach – the next bit is actually a combination of heathland and a concrete road just above the beach. It certainly makes the walk easier than if it was on soft sand all the way.

At this point I had my first glimpse of the Point of Ayre lighthouse – the northernmost point of the island. I had a glimpse of it for the next hour. With the terrain being flat, and with only grass and sand between me and it, conditions presented the optical illusion of landmarks appearing to be closer than they actually were.

On the final approach to the lighthouse, the weather worsened. I had seen a black cloud approaching for some time, and when the wind got up, I knew that it was here. On with the waterproofs! It was all over in 5 minutes – I'd also seen the blue sky behind the cloud approaching, but for those 5 minutes, it was a bracing, wet and windy time. Happily, the wind was at the back of me, so I wasn't battling against it, and whilst my back and left side were dripping wet, the front right side of my waterproof coat was bone dry!

The storm passed and the lighthouse was here. It's south all the way now! Not bad going to say that it was only 2 days ago I was at the Sound Cafe.

The sun was out all afternoon, but it was deceptive – there was also a cold wind blowing. It was also high tide, but I did have enough beach between the sea and the cliffs for me to not be in danger. Also, the tide was going out, so had the worst happened, all I would have needed to do is wait a while. Happily, it didn't come to that. After a brief stop for a sandwich and to take a phone call from Radio Wales (!) I could see Ramsey in the distance. Like the lighthouse this morning, it always seemed to be in the distance and never seemed to get any closer. It took a long time to get there, but, of course, I made it in the end.

Rendezvous with John today was in Gophers cafe. Mango and white chocolate scone while I wait? I don't mind if I do!

Raad ny Foillan - part 1

Raad Ny Foillan

Day 0 – Travel to and arrival on the Isle of Man

“Aberystwyth! Or Llandudno” My first thoughts on my first glimpse of Douglas Promenade from the boat were that it could be either of these Welsh resorts. Indeed, having now seen rather more of Douglas, I still think it's a cross between the two. Either way, it certainly made me feel at home, as did other parts of the island, but more of that in due course.

I was met off the boat by John, with whom I have been in contact for some time about walking the Isle of Man coastal path. After what must be about a year of planning, it seems as if the day is finally here. From the ferry, he drove me home where I met his son, and had a chance to chat over a cuppa, and then a meal.

Afterwards, the Raad ny Foillan started – but only very gently, a walk around Port St Mary from the end of the promenade to the harbour. Nothing too strenuous there! En route, I did see a Manx cat – usually taken as being a sign of luck, so I was rather pleased with that.

More chatting fairly late into the night (this was to become something of a pattern!) was followed by bed, ready for starting the walk properly the next day

Day 1 – Port St Mary to Niarbyl

Leaving Port St Mary via the harbour, along the sea-front and up into the hills. After the initial ascent, there was a shelter. It wasn't raining, I didn't need shelter, but I decided to use it to do a map check, have a sip of water and generally get my bearings. What I haven't admitted to anyone before now is that at this point, I thought that disaster had struck before I had really gone anywhere. There was one thing I had forgotten – the map! To be honest, I don't really know how I completed day 1 without getting ridiculously lost. Fortunately, I also had a guide book, and by paying even more careful to detail than usual to that, I was able to work out where I was and what was coming. Not to be recommended, especially in the light of what the afternoon had in store! That said, a useful guide is always “Keep the sea on your left”, and as the path was pretty clearly at t his stage, I decided to press on and see where I got. Perhaps not recommended, but what other option was there? Remember, quitting is not an option!

It was here where I realised what people had said about the path being right next to the cliff and a vertical drop. I'm not afraid of heights, but I do respect them. There were some places on the walk where path and cliff-top were just a bit too close for comfort.

Following the path a bit more, I reached the Sands cafe at the South-western corner of the island. Hat's a lovely place – I didn't have time for a cuppa – it would be lovely if I could make use of every cafe I pass, but whilst there will be an occasional cuppa here and there, this is a walking holiday, not a cafe crawl, so, one again, on we go!

Next stop was Port Erin, and this was a cafe stop for coffee and pastry. I knew I would need the energy – there are some steep hills to come this afternoon!

When I left the cafe, it was raining, and I couldn't see the top of the first hill, Bradda. To be fair, the worst of the weather did clear, but it was still a bit wet and misty up the tops. The first ascent took me to the Milner Tower, which I took to be the top of Bradda Hill. I was wrong. There was more to come. Basically, that set the pattern for the afternoon – when I thought I'd got to the top, there was a bit more to come. I'm sure that the views from the top are spectacular on a clear day. Port Erin in the mist from the Milner Tower was as good as it got for me!

The descent from Bradda Hill was rather steep. Unfortunately, the height lost has to be regained on the other side of a minor road at Fleshwick Bay for the ascent of Lhiattee ny Beinee. This is tough. It is steep, and I like to think that I'm reasonably fit, but when I had to stop for breath every few steps, I decided that it was time for a rest, a sandwich break and see if I could get some energy to get to the top. Well, yes, it did the trick, but once again, the hill had a trick of its own in store. The cairn I had set my eyes on, did not mark the top, and when I thought, “Oh no, that's higher” it was rather discouraging! However, I got there eventually.

What goes up must come down, and the descent from here seemed to be vertical at times. This was not nice – but when I met a couple of people trying to go up the path, perhaps I did have the easy option after all.

Like the descent from Bradda Hill, this descent finishes at a road, and, once again, the height that's lost has to be regained. It's not a drop quite down to sea level, and perhaps the next bit isn't quite as steep as the ascent to Lhiatee ny Beinee, but all the same, Cronk ny Arrey Laa stands before you, beckoning you on, perhaps in a bit of a menacing way – or was that just the mist which hadn't totally lifted?

Fair play, this ascent wasn't the worst of the day, but it is the highest. Indeed, it's the highest point of the entire Raad ny Foillan. Sitting by the cairn at the top was very comforting – it meant that whatever happened on the rest of the walk, no amount of hill-walking would take me to even half this height over the coming days.

Now this is where I'm not quite sure what happened. I think I got a bit lost. Not horrendously, but I just had to trust instinct more than anything else. I knew not to take the path that descended to the nearest road, so I didn't. I must have been right to that point. It was as the path descended and came to a minor road that I couldn't quite work out where the path went next. The guidebook was saying that I had to be broadly in the right direction – certainly the rather boggy, squelchy bracken-covered terrain which the guide book was talking about looked and felt to be a fair reflection of where I was, but if there was a path marking, I couldn't make it out, or missed it or something. The long and short of it is that I did make it to Niarbyl, but perhaps by not quite the recommended route. Anyway, that was quite enough for one day. I had made good progress, covered about 20 miles and done the worst of the hills. That's where I texted John and asked to be picked up from the nearest cafe! Well, it would be rude not to have 2 coffees and a scone after all that wouldn't it?