Saturday, 3 March 2012

Update 2 - leaving Barmouth

West Wales in January. Biting cold, but glorious sunshine. A beautiful day for a walk.

Leaving Barmouth is an experience. The route takes you over the Mawddach estuary via a rail and foot bridge. It looks a rickety old thing, but as it carries a passenger train every hour, it must be safe enough. The wind howled, I needed 4 layers on as well as hat, gloves etc, but it was wonderful. The scenery over the estuary is breathtaking, and it was a wonderful way to start the day.

Once over the bridge, it's on the path to Fairbourne, following a sea wall and the Fairbourne railway, which, being a school day in January, was not running. This is another of the many Welsh seaside resorts which looks as if it could be very pleasant in season, but looks deserted the rest of the time. Not that I'm here for a day at the beach. Well, I am in a way, but not in that sense. There are other resorts which are calling.

Much as I hate doing so, I had to follow the road for a while. Fortunately it's a pretty quiet road, and as the sea wall seems to peter out into the sea, it was definitely the best decision! However, it does go uphill. Never let anyone tell you that the coast of Wales is flat. Whilst it was by no means the steepest section of the coast - I had that joy on the Lleyn peninsula on a baking hot day last August - it's a climb all the same. However, as with all climbs, it is worth it for the view out to sea.

Other than the view, there isn't that much of interest for the next step, though eventually you do come to the village of Rhoslefain. Whilst this is a very small place - maybe village is a bit of an over-grand description, there is at least a place to sit, check the map, pour a coffee and realise that at last there is a way forward that involves only minor roads, so that was where to head next.

So it was along that minor road and over a field to rejoin the main road (which to be honest was so wide at this stage that it looked like Brands Hatch - but without the traffic) before turning off it again to cross the old Dysynni Bridge (pedestrians only these days), which is the place closest to the coast where to cross the Dysynni river. After that, it was a 2-mile walk on the path alongside the main road to head into the resort of Tywyn.

To look at the map, the logical thing would be to continue down the coast to Aberdovey then head along the Dovey estuary to Machynlleth. However, to do that would require about 20 miles of walking on main roads. No thanks. There is another option which goes on quieter roads inland to Machynlleth, and logic dictates that to be the path to follow. That's for the next section though, so today's walk ends in Tywyn, with very familiar ground tantalisingly close.

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