Machynlleth

Today's stage of the walk was functional rather than anything else. It had to be done, but I was unhappy with it for a number of reasons. They all revolve around that fact that it took me away from the coast, and there was very little in the way of sea view to speak of here.

The plan was to walk from Tywyn to Machynlleth. why Machynlleth, a town the best part of 20 miles from the coast? Where does that come into the picture? Well, it may be inland, but it is the place nearest the coast where I can cross the Dovey estuary (apart from a railway bridge which is railway only and has no public right of way)

Ironically, as I started to head inland, just after Tywyn, the signs I needed to follow were for "Happy valley" - I was anything but! As if the feeling that I was going off course wasn't bad enough, conditions underfoot were far from ideal. The weather was biting cold, and there was ice in places. I slipped but stayed upright a couple of times - thankfully nothing serious.

There were some good points, though, and these also deserve a mention. Firstly, on approaching the village of Cwrt, the views were stunning. Not coast as such, but views over the estuary, as the hills on my right finally gave way and allowed a look at what lies beyond them. Also, in Pennal, the delightful church of St Peter ad vincula is well worth a visit. It dates back to the 6th century, has links with Owain Glyndwr, yet embraces the modern as well as the ancient.

Meeting up with the A487 for the final push into Machynlleth brought me back onto the route I used for the Bangor to Cardiff walk over 20 years ago. It is a long time since I have been to Machynlleth, and most of my visits then were to change trains at the station. I had a good hour and a bit before a train back to Barmouth (where I had left the car) so it was a chance to walk round the small town and jog some memories of yesteryear. Although it's a long time since I visited, this is now very familiar territory, and I am looking forward to the next stage immensely.