The Tide is High

In many ways, my time on Holy Island could be summed up in 4 words – walk, read, pray, sleep. Not necessarily in that order! There was, of course, rather more to it than that.

This was my 4^th visit to the island. It is a place I love, it is special and it has a peace about it that is hard to find elsewhere.

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne, to give it its full name is steeped in Christian history. The ruins of the abbey speak of the saints of old, Cuthbert, Aiden and others, and a number of churches and other worship centres on the island remind us that Christian life and witness continues there to this day.

The approach to Holy Island is via a causeway. This is flooded at high tide. It is stating the obvious, but if the tide tables say that it is unsafe to cross, do not try to cross. It's not just a case of driving through a bit of a flood on the road, it means that you are driving into the North Sea. If that is the case, you will not get across, you will almost certainly lose the car (try telling that one to the insurance companies!) and indeed, not wishing to over-dramatise things, but your life could be in danger as well.

When I crossed, I was aware of the tide tables, and the causeway was to close 75 minutes after I made the crossing. I was listening to Radio Newcastle at the time, and when I made it to the island, the song they played was Blondie's “The Tide is High” How appropriate!

First job was to check into the retreat house where I was staying “The Open Gate”. It is where I have always stayed when on the island, and I could hardly believe it when I was shown to the same room that I have had on the last 3 occasions. Knowing my way around there immediately gave me a sense of easy familiarity, the unpacking took next to no time, and in so many ways I felt as if I was in a home away from home.

Having a walk around the island, I noticed that there was a funeral party leaving the parish church, so I kept a respectful distance, yet had a feeling that in such a small, close-knit community as this, it would be something I would hear talked about in the days to come. Some of the mourners were heading to their cars to leave the island, it was almost the end of the safe crossing time, others were heading to the Manor House, a very nice hotel. I had looked at the possibility of staying there should the Open Gate be full, but I didn't need that plan B – quite happily as it turns out, I could see by the crowd going in that there is no way I would wish to be checking in there right now. Also, for today at least, I'd be unlikely to get much peace!

Away from the funeral party, as the tide began to cover the causeway and a peace descended on the island, I could feel myself relaxing already.

12 noon saw mid-day prayers in the chapel at the Open Gate, and this was followed by the search for somewhere to have lunch – not as easy as it sounds. In the summer, you can't move for tea shops, cafes etc, but out of season it's not so easy. Fortunately, the post office doubles up as a cafe and further doubles up as a general stores, so I was able to get a snack there. It was there that I met a few other people staying on the island. One was an Anglican vicar, also staying at the Open Gate, and the other a Catholic priest staying at the Manor House. It was quite a good conversation all told!

This is meant to be a retreat, but I decided to spend the afternoon getting some work out of the way. Quite simply, I prepared my services up to and including Epiphany. Hymns / carols, readings all sorted, it just leaves sermons to be written. It felt fantastic, but when I'd finished and shared the news on Facebook, the first comment I got back was “I want to hit you very hard” And that from a so-called friend !! :-)

There was a bit of time for rest in the later part of the afternoon before evening prayer in the parish church, St Mary's, where the funeral was held earlier. In the prayers there, I discovered that the name of the deceased was Douglas, and yes, of course he was remembered in the prayers.

If finding somewhere to have lunch was interesting, it was the same sort of problem trying to find a place for dinner. Usually I've eaten at one of the island's pubs, the Ship, but there was a notice on the door saying that it was closed until 22^nd Dec. So it had to be the Manor House, all the other pubs, restaurants etc being closed. At least there is one place open, but, of course, that is where the wake was being held after the funeral, and now, over 7 hours after the service, with the causeway re-opened, there were some who were still going strong. I understand that even the widow had departed by this point, but not all had followed her example. Some were obviously rather the worse for wear by now as well. Still, it didn't disturb my enjoyment of dinner, it was only the pouring rain which put a dampener on the evening!

Back in my room, I started one of the books I had brought “This odd and wondrous calling” in which 2 ministers tell their stories, and after night prayers at the Open Gate, I slept better than I have done in some time.

Day 2 began, not surprisingly, with breakfast. This was shared with Giles and Nathan, the 2 other guests at the Open Gate, Graham, who is the manager, for want of a better description, and Ellie, the housekeeper, again for want of a better description! It was a fascinating conversation, with Graham racking his brains trying to work out where he knows me from. It is from previous visits to the island, having met him then. Fair play, That was over 3 years ago, and he has seen a lot of guests at the Open Gate since then!

So, an attempt at a walk round the island. I say attempt, as that is all it was. The rain from last night had stopped, thank goodness, but it had been replaced by a biting cold wind. I did get a look at Cuthbert's Island though. It was tempting to go over there, but the tide was coming in, and access is even more limited than access to Holy Island via the causeway. Perhaps this time tomorrow if all goes to plan. 

The Abbey was closed (is anything open out of season?), but a walk on the tops at the Heugh does at least allow for a view into the abbey grounds.

As well as the Parish church, there is also a United Reformed Church on the island. I don't make too much of it to be honest – it was nice to have somewhere to sit quietly, but it didn't seem to have any atmosphere. It's a bit harsh to say that it's become a glorified sitting room, but that's how it felt. Sorry.

After mid-day prayers and lunch in the post-office cafe, there were 2 short walks round parts of the island this afternoon. Again, the cold prevented me from doing a full lap of the island, even though I had 4 layers on! The first was down to the castle. Guess what – it was shut! And the second to the end of the visitor's car park, to take some photos over the causeway. As the sunset was so stunning, I went back to Cuthbert's island, now completely cut off by the tide, and the light over in that direction was absolutely stunning.

After more reading, then piling the layers on again for evening prayers in the parish church, I had dinner in the Manor House again, as again, it was the only place on the island doing dinner! There were 4 of us this time, Malcolm, who is the Catholic priest I had lunch with yesterday, and Bill and David, 2 of the other guests in the hotel. We'd got talking in the bar beforehand, realised we were all there for something to eat and decided to share a table and chat as we ate. It made for a very pleasant evening and not a little ecumenical discussion thrown in for good measure! Night prayers at the Open Gate rounded off the evening before heading to bed.

Day 3, and finally the chance to get to Cuthbert's Island after breakfast. The tide was coming in, but it was a little earlier than yesterday, and hight tide would be a little later, so I realised that I had the chance to go if I went now, didn't hang about when I got there and kept a very keen eye on the tide so as not to be stranded. Happily, all went to plan. A bit more time to enjoy the peace of the island would have been nice, but, short of following in Cuthbert's footsteps and allowing myself to be stranded over there until low tide tonight, that was not an option.

As the weather was a few degrees warmer than yesterday – though hardly tropical (!) I did venture for the walk round the island at last. It was cold, but worth it. It was also pretty wet and muddy.

After mid-day prayers I was chatting to a vicar and her husband from Liverpool over lunch. No prizes for guessing where – the post-office cafe! It was a bit un-nerving to be told by the proprietor that I reminded him of someone from the telly, but he couldn't work out who. Don't say he's been watching too much “Total Wipeout!”

By now it was high tide again, and as I have never seen the causeway flooded, I had a walk to water's edge. When the warning signs tell you not to cross the causeway when there is water on the road it is for a reason. I knew that, I have mentioned it above, and now I see why. I know it is stating the obvious, but as there are still some people who have not got the message, I will say it again – for safety's sake, don't. It is not worth it.

After evening prayer, it was time for a bit of packing. Tonight one of the pubs, the Crown and Anchor, was open, so that is where I ate. It was interesting listening to a couple of the locals having a chat – apparently some people stayed in the Manor until 1AM after the funeral the other day – a total of 14 hours in the bar. I mean – why? There's so much more I could say about that, but perhaps it's best not to. Also, there are plans to develop some of the island. Now, in some ways it needs it, but as always happens, it's not gone down too well, some of the people who have not read the detailed plans are confusing one with another. Some could be for the good of the island and its community, others less so. Certainly it must not lose the special nature it has, but that needs to be mixed with the challenge of living in the 21^st century. I know that's not a matter that is exclusive to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, but it doesn't make it any easier.

As it happens, after night prayers, Graham said that a meeting which had taken place that night about this very matter was a very good and extremely productive one. Let's hope some good can come of it without losing the sense of peace and tranquility as well as the tradition of centuries of prayer and worship from the faithful.

Normally when I visit Holy Island I stay just the 2 nights. I was very glad of the 3^rd night this time. It felt just about right. I left after breakfast the following day ready for Advent and all that this season brings.

I hope that this, my 4^th visit to the island is not my last one.